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Originally Posted by 85vette
Use caution when making adjustments to the steering gear box. The slotted screw is the worm gear adjuster and can easily break if excess pressure is used. I would advise to consult with a Chiltons manual or someone who has one of these apart. I adjusted one on a truck one time and was told afterward what could have happened.
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Makes sense, but then again any adjustment or repair on any part of any 30 plus year old car should be done with caution and should only be attempted after some kind of research. But to not try to attempt anything because of what might possibly happen doesn't make much sense. Ya, if you put a 1/2 inch wrench on the nut with a two foot pipe to tighten it down you are surely asking for trouble, or if you use a one foot long screwdriver to tighten down the adjuster screw as much as possible on the sector shaft you will certainly wind up in the crapper. As with any repair you should make note of where the screw and nut are positioned before attempting to adjust them, even mark the steering box with a dab of white paint so if things don't work out you can go back to where you started.
Just so we don't get confused the slotted screw is the pitman shaft adjuster. The worm gear adjuster is a big nut that is part of a bearing cap that is locked down by a big diameter ring nut about two inches in diameter.
There is probably no need to align the steering box on the frame but you do want to check to make sure the bolts are tight and there is no space between the frame and the box. Then you want to check all the componants, ball joints, idler arm, tie rod ends and especially the a-frame bushings.
The steering box on this car is a Saginaw Recirculating Ball Type. The proper way to adjust it is as follows. After checking all the componants disconnect the steering linkage from the pitman arm, loosen the pitman shaft adjusting screw lock nut and back off the adjustment. Turn the steering wheel to the left or right to within one turn of extreme travel. Loosen the lock nut on the end plate of the gear box and turn the worm bearing adjuster in until all end play is removed. Use a pull spring scale at the spoke of the steering wheel and continue to adjust the worm bearing adjusting screw in until a pull of approx one pound is required to turn the steering wheel. Tighten down the lock nut. Turn the wheel from one extreme to another to make sure there is no binding or stiffness. Don't have a spring scale then make small adjustments many times rather than one large one. After the worm gear has been adjusted to satisfaction place the steering wheel in the center position. Tighten the pitman shaft adjusting screw in the gearbox side cover until the end play is taken up in the pitman shaft. A pull of approxamately two pounds should be required to turn the steering wheel. This includes worm bearing preload. Tighten the lock nut and check for stiffness and binding.
These are push pull adjustments which controls both cross shaft end play and gear mesh, if binding or stiffness is encountered recheck the adjustments. Don't forget to refill the gearcox and connect the steering linkage.
On an end note, if you have never done these types of adjustments or don't want to attempt them, then by all means don't, but they arent really that difficult if you understand how the box works and what you are doing. I rebuilt the box in my 66 (without a spring scale tool) and it did make a difference, it's very easy to do as long as you use common sense and take your time, as any repair should be done on a car. If you don't have the basic working knowledge or a short fuse you could be in for a long, long day.
Naturally these are just my opinions.