Where's Deland ?????
I'm gonna make a couple of suggestions here to you, if you want to listen that's ok, if not it's up to you. I have looked at many C2's and C3's in my time and there are a few things to look at. I reread you other thread and you said and I quote
"As to vehcile condition. I want either an excellent condition survivor or a fully restored vehicle. Equipment, numbers matching, A/C, and as many factory optiions as I can find on one car. Must be a 4 speed and engine would be nice if a big block but not a must. Paint, gotta be very, very good and factory color (same for interior) unless it happens to be a really fine looking alternate color."
Now in looking at the posted pics of this car and reading the info a couple of things came to mind.
A) Even if the car is 37 years old, if the car is documented the owner should be able to tell you if the mileage is true. From the way he worded the info I would have to say that the car is TMU, True Mileage Unknown. This will definately affect resale and the future people who might be interested in buying this car.
B) New paint, was it painted to hide bad paint or body damage ? I described to you before how these bodies are pieced together. If you look at the pic I posted you will see #7, that is a bonding strip. If you look inside the fenders and 1/4 panels you should see these. If you don't see these strips in all four wheelwells chances are the car has been hit and not repaired correctly.
C) The engine has been bored thirty over, it has a new fan and fan clutch. Bored engines tend to run hotter, a new fan and clutch might indicate a cooling problem. You might want to check the radiator carefully. Get the car to operating temp then shut the motor off. Then take your hand and place it in the center of the radiator. It should be just as hot as the outer perimeter of the radiator. If it is cooler thats a sign that the radiator is clogged in the center. Naturally make sure the engine is off before you stick your hand in there.
D) Check the frame side rails carefully for rot. Fresh paint could indicate that the frame has been repaired.
E) I notice the ignition shielding is missing. The car also appears to be sitting high to me indicating suspension work more than just shocks. Check the tires for wear, four wheel alignments on these cars is a pain in the ass.
F) Now the numbers on the engine pad seem to indicate this is a numbers matching car, however these pads can be ground down and restamped. Just because these numbers match it is no guarentee that this is the original block. The only way to guarentee this is a numbers matching car is to research the casting numbers on the block located at the rear of the block near the bell housing. These are usually the last to be tampered with, they are seven digets and are raised not stamped.
I don't want to appear that I am projecting doom and gloom but you are looking to spend a lot of money and you want to be sure you don't get ripped off. Also make sure the headlamps and wiper door raise and lower easily. Just a few tips.
Jeff
Am going to look at........
OK I'll try for a photo post again....
Hybrid Mode
