• Got the Contributing Memberships stuff finally worked out and made up a thread as a sort of "How-To" to help people figure out how to participate. So if you need help figuring it out, here's the thread you need to take a look at -> http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=3581 Thank you, everyone! Rich Z.

427 engine (part 2) - RHS block

Bob K said:
Hey, you're welcome. I have no idea what the cost is but judging from your post it must be expensive.
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Evidently there are a couple of different kits, and price depends on how much coverage you want ton the types of locking lugs the kit will work on. Of course, since I have no idea what particular type I have, I would likely have to buy the most comprehensive kit, and then probably NEVER have another use for it again in my lifetime.

But hopefully the socket will be where John put it and save the day.
 
How about this

What about taking the vin number to a gm dealer and asking them to look up which locking lug nut came with the car and having them get one for you. Or perhaps it is listed in the rpo codes for your car. That is if you cannot find your original.
 
CorvetteJohn said:
What about taking the vin number to a gm dealer and asking them to look up which locking lug nut came with the car and having them get one for you. Or perhaps it is listed in the rpo codes for your car. That is if you cannot find your original.
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I bought the car used, and the guy I bought it from was pretty shady. Matter of fact, the Z06 had regular C5 wheels and tires on it. So there is no guarantee at all that the locking lugs are original for the car.

I'm hopeful I can come up with it tomorrow at the shop. If need be, I will check every socket in the place and take everyone that doesn't look like a normal socket to try them.

The sockets used to remove locking lug nuts kind of look something like a screw remover, except that it is external and bites into the lugnut to spin it off the stud. Heck, Advance Auto might even have the tool and loan it out to me for free, if necessary. They do that sort of thing as a service. Of course, I can see where a really stubborn nut might just get ground smooth instead of unscrewing, which would likely leave me REALLY screwed.
 
Wow. After reading that thread over in BOI, I don't feel so bad. My car may be behind schedule but I don't have any fear of getting ripped off. You folks all have my sincere sympathies.
 
Rich i hate to ask and i know i cant afford it but i need an engine dont much care if its a 4 banger. Whats the mules on your old engine and how much do you want for it pm me if you want.
 
THUNDER said:
Rich i hate to ask and i know i cant afford it but i need an engine dont much care if its a 4 banger. Whats the mules on your old engine and how much do you want for it pm me if you want.
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Chris Harwood gave me a $1,700 credit for that LS6 engine on my original statement for the build. He has already agreed to me selling it outright to recoup the money he owes me for the headers and turbo coating. Since Chris owes me $1,500 (I have an undated check from him for that amount), then that is what I would like to get for it. A new crate LS6 is around $6K, if I'm not mistaken.

I don't believe it has the intake manifold, or at least I don't know where it is, since it is not on the engine. Not sure why it was taken off, as we were talking about putting that engine into Connie's truck a while back. And any brackets and accessories needed for my new engine will, of course, not be there any longer.

I believe it had 80K+ miles on it, and was running REAL strong. Never used a drop of oil. Connie still wants to kick my butt for pulling out a perfectly good engine for that 427 I wanted.

I'm running out to Blountstown tomorrow around 10am if you want to look it over and discuss this further.
 
rich i am struggling to find a truck to get my car out. an i cant do anything without a motor. my heads are still missing may be cheaper just puting your ls6 in my 87 i am a several hundred short. pkus paying for the install. but yes entrested. just have to come up with all this money at once. wish i woul dhave known all this before i gave chris $3000 for a 383. that i am now told would not have worked right anyway without changeing my intake. I started a thread to sell my laptop. If i sell it i may be able to get it just depends what i get for it.

http://www.corvetteflorida.com/forums/showthread.php?t=50667 < my laptop
 
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Sorry I missed some of this, but I have every C5 lug lock that GM made if you need. Have never had a car in that one didn't fit...
 
RevXtreme 1 said:
Sorry I missed some of this, but I have every C5 lug lock that GM made if you need. Have never had a car in that one didn't fit...
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Well hopefully mine will be there. I assume there is more than one kind, so how would I even know how to get a replacement if that doesn't pan out?
 
Okay I have to run over to Panama City automotive in the morning to ss what the heck is going on.I'll wait until Monday to go. I'm sure it will be a wasted trip.Hope you find what you need in Blunstown to get your wheel locks off.
 
Went to Blountstown this morning. John found two sockets that fit locking lug nuts, so we took both of them. I'll return the other one that does not work on my car, as certainly someone else there now, or in the recent past, is going to be needing this thing.

Luckily Connie noticed the two aluminum panels on the table, as those were the rear guards for my gas tanks that were not put on the car. So much for everything being mechanically complete on the car.

Went up to Thomasville to see them still working on the tune for my car. Apparently there is something wrong in the wiring (possibly) that is making one of the O2 sensors ground out and cause the CPU to try to enrich the fuel to compensate. So the one back starts running REAL rich. They are going to bypass this problem for the time being by forcing the AFR to run in open loop. Once other issues get straightened out, then they will troubleshoot the problem so the car can run in closed loop. Still hearing a chattering from the rocker arm area. Sounds louder on the driver's side. Not sure what that is at this point. Do MSD coil packs make noise? It almost sounds like an ignition spark noise to me.

Both valve covers are leaking oil, so Aaron is going to have to yank them off to see what is making them leak. Justin had to pull them both off when he fixed that coolant leak at the back of the heads, so maybe the gaskets got pinched in the process. Oh yeah, they found a couple of the spark plug wires were loose. And here I was thinking the new cam was making that nice lope in idle.... :rolleyes:

Aaron is a little concerned about the oil pressure being lower than he likes it to be. Not sure what this means yet.... But he asked me if Chris had primed the oil pump properly before starting up the engine for the first time. I never heard Chris mention it, so I just don't know. Evidently this is something that needs to be done to every engine when it is built. Something I never heard of before, so I sure hope Chris knew about it.

No earthly idea when I'll be seeing my car back home again. But I certainly do get a pounding headache lately whenever I think about this...
 
To prime the pump you have to remove the spark plugs, remove the fuel relay fuse and unclip the coil pack wiring, then turn the car over for 30 seconds, wait 5 minutes then do it again. Adding oil to the filter is a good bet as well.

I doubt Chris did all that work....
 
Bob K said:
I think he's concerned that the oi filter wasn't filled with oil prior to installing it.
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Actually I think it's something different than that. But I was thinking about this, and remembered that Chris had disconnected the ignition and the fuel pump and turned the engine over for a couple of minutes using the starter. He did this a couple of times, if I remember correctly, so I believe this would have primed the oil pump.
 
ALWAYS do this. If you leave the fuel pump relay in it washes the cylinders down. Good info.

Fatbum said:
To prime the pump you have to remove the spark plugs, remove the fuel relay fuse and unclip the coil pack wiring, then turn the car over for 30 seconds, wait 5 minutes then do it again. Adding oil to the filter is a good bet as well.

I doubt Chris did all that work....
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Fatbum said:
To prime the pump you have to remove the spark plugs, remove the fuel relay fuse and unclip the coil pack wiring, then turn the car over for 30 seconds, wait 5 minutes then do it again. Adding oil to the filter is a good bet as well.

I doubt Chris did all that work....
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Damn, I've never heard of doing that. Good info Dan and I see Tracy posting also. I wonder what pulling the spark plugs has to do with priming the oil pump? I understand after reading what Tracy posted about the fuel pump relay.
 
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