Next resoration project....

[Kap142]

I have a leak in an original radiator (72 BB with manual) Being that the radiator is 35+ years old I think replacement is in order. I have a few questions.

1) Is an original radiator the best bet, they cooled only fairly well back then?

2) Would a modern version like a Be Cool radiator be a smarter path even if I lose the "original" part look (it is still a bolt in) or are other radiators made that look original and cool far better?

3) And.... how much of a PITA is the replacement (I'll buy the beer if ya'll will come help with the project)?


And I'm sure I have just scratched the surface with this inquiry.


Ken

 

[Nytro]

Good project Ken. As you know your original radiator is an aluminum piece. There are copper replacements out there but they don't cool as well. Depending on how you are going to use the car will determine if a copper replacement will work for you. While you are doing this you probably want to check all componants of the cooling system including the water pump for leaks out the bottom hole, and you probably want to change the thermostst, I would use a 160 degree. I would also recommend adding a bottle of Redline Water Wetter when the job is finished. I'd replace all the hoses, thermostat and belts at the same time. Also while you have the fan off check the fan clutch for any leaks. Check the cooling tank where the hoses connect for rot, also in the heater hoses there is a valve and a couple of nipples you want to check those for deteriation also. Now for the heater core, if the radiator is 34 years old the heater core is also. There is a simple way to check to make sure it is not plugged. (Leaks are obvious) Get the car up to operating temp and turn the heater on and run it for a few minutes. Then go under the hood and find where the heater hoses come out of the firewall. One hose is an inlet and one an outlet. They should both be the same temperature, feel just as hot. If one hose is cooler than the other that means the water is not circulating properly thru the core and it is probably partially blocked. To change the core is no fun chore. Now when you remove the shroud and radiator there are seals in there so you will want to inspect them and make sure you keep track of where they come from.

Your car being a 454 there is a good possibility that it is a Heavy Duty radiator. I believe on the right side tank facing the engine there should be a tag with the production code, usually two letters, this may or may not be necessary for getting the right replacement.

Heres a few links, I personally think Griffin are the best, that is what I used in my 66.

http://griffinrad.com/

http://www.radiator.com/vendors.html#griffin

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/stor...adiator&OVKEY=be cool radiator&OVMTC=advanced


http://www.dewitts.com/pages/categoryresults.asp?catID=1

http://www.rondavisradiators.com/radgallery.htm

http://www.coolcraft.com/Details.cfm?ProdID=125&Category=4

 

[Kap142]

So far......

Ok I have been exploring the links Nitro provided and am impressed with what Dewitt's seems to offer. Price even seems fairly reasonable.

How do you guys feel about a light coating of black paint? Would it have any effect on cooling?:thumbsup: :thumbsdown:

Is the replacement a royal pain or just time consuming and careful labor? I imagine removing the hood is step number one.

I concur completely about checking every component in the system, the heater core is already leaking just a bit so that will get replaced also. Just might farm that project out.

I briefly considered going to electric fans but think I'll maintain the original configuration in that area unless I'll need extra cooling for some reason.

I have no engine mods in line for the motor.

What benefits will I garner from a 160 degree thermostat?

 

[Nytro]

I don't think you would need to remove the hood. You need to drain the radiator, take off the fan and clutch, unbolt the shroud, remove the hoses, then you should be able to slide the shroud towards the motor and slip the radiator out. The benefit to a 160 thermostat is that the motor will run 20 degrees cooler, the cooler the better.

I liked the Dewitt products also, I would opt for the black finished radiator myself. Have them paint it as it is not regular paint.

The only thing I would make sure of is that the replacement has four rows of cooling tubes.

Jeff

Redline Water Wetter is a very good product. It not only helps the engine run cooler but it also contains a water pump lubricant which is beneficial for the water pump bearings..